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  • Swivel Snake-Fly Step-by-Step.

    Had this step-by-step lying around, so thought I'd share it with those that may find it of interest - even though it has done the rounds a few times....

    The essentials; darning needle, 2x1cm shrink tubes (3mm internal bore), 25cm section of braided mono, size 10 Partridge BMD double hook, size 10 swivel, lighter, super-glue (doesn’t have to be waterproof as it will be covered by the shrink-tubing).

    Start by threading the hook onto the braid, followed by the needle.

    Looping back, puncture the braid with the needle, passing it up the braid for about 3-4cm (depending on what length you want the fly to be) before passing the needle to the outside of the core.

    Pull the needle through, then take the needle off the braid. You can then pull the loose end until it sits snugly onto the hook.

    Repeat the process with the swivel.

    Pulling both loose ends tight to the hook and swivel, the loose ends can then be cut snugly to the body, taking care not to cut the body braid.

    The next step is to put on the 2 pieces of shrink-tubing. If the tubes pass over the swivel easily, all the better. However, if they don’t then it is easier to loop some nylon through the eye of the swivel and pass the two tubes over the nylon. You can then exert some force onto the tubes, which will help them pass over the swivel.

    With the two tubes on the mount, the next step is to drop a small amount of super-glue onto the mount. One small drop by the hook, and one small drop by the swivel.

    The tubes are then passed over the glue and positioned. When in position, pass the lighter over the tubes, quickly! – If not, you will burn the mount.

    After shrinking both tubes, pull the mount straight and hold. Upon cooling, which takes just a few second, you will be left with a nice, straight mount. At times, especially with the longer mounts, you will find that the snakes hinge too much. To cure this put a third piece of shrink tubing around the middle of the amount, again with a drop of glue. That’s the mount finished! I find it easier to make a few at the same time, before continuing to the tying stage.

    These flies can be slightly fiddly, as they are predominantly tied in hand (literally). As such, the next step is to set out all the materials you are going to need for the fly. Here I have used black arctic fox belly fur for the wing, red arctic fox plate fur false hackle, lazer mylar tubing body, jungle cock cheeks, peacock mirage overwing, 6/0 fire orange thread.

    Firstly, measure and cut a sufficient amount of mylar tubing for the body. Cut slightly more than necessary, as it does tend to fray.

    Upon passing it over the mount, secure it near the hook. This stage can be done in the vice, if necessary. Tie off the thread and varnish. Always varnish before doing the next step! If not, you will end up with the materials getting in the way, and getting stuck to the varnish. Quite often I would do up to this point in batches, ready for tying on the final ingredients.

    With the hook end sorted, we can now progress to the swivel. Clamp the swivel in one hand and tie with the other. Two critical tying techniques will help you with this fly; pinch-and-loop, and the half-hitch – superb glue can come in handy too. The second stage is to secure the mylar tubing at the swivel end. Before securing the mylar, pull it taught. This will give you a nice, slim body. After securing and trimming the excess put a couple of half hitches onto the head and a dab of super glue – this will stop the thread bouncing off the swivel, and will enable you to put the fly down whilst you sort out the next material.

    Measure the wing to the appropriate length – just past the hook-bend. Then pinch and loop before tightening the thread onto the swivel and putting a few tight turns to secure the wing. Repeat this for the mirage tinsel overwing, leaving the fibres longer than necessary and trimming after completing the entire fly. Put on another couple of half-hitches to secure.

    Turn the fly over, and repeat the above procedure with the red arctic fox fur as a false hackle. I tend to tie this to half the length of the body, or shorter.
    After that, get the jungle cock eyes which are ready prepared. Position them with a couple of loose turns of thread before tying them in firmly.
    Take the thread over the head, tidying up any gaps or colours showing through – or you can cheat by using coloured varnish at a later date. Then whip-finish, and varnish. Job done!
    The final article, side view.

    The wet-look! As you can see, the fibres are very fine and form quite a streamline wing and false hackle when wet.

    Due to their braided core, snake-flies carry little weight. This is both a hindrance and a help. The lightweight construction equates to long lengths being fishable without casting becoming too much of a chore, or a ‘chuck-and-duck’ affair. However, this lightweight construction does also render a shallow fishing depth, dependant on line choice, of course. Lead strips can be passed through the core of the braid before attaching the mylar tubing, this would add weight to the body without losing the flexibility of the fly. However, a better solution would be to fish the flies on a short leader with sinking or sink-tips lines. This way you will keep the light, easy to cast fly, whilst getting down to the required depth.

    Hope this was of interest.

    Tight-lines.

    TT.

  • #2
    Very explanatory - and a pleasure to read!

    Where can I buy those hooks?
    Charlie Bettell

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    • #3
      Thanks Trout. The hooks are partridge BMD's, and one of the best deals around would be found here:

      http://www.lakelandflytying.com/Sear...x?Keywords=bmd

      Basically, it would work out at about Ł10.20 for 4 boxes, which is 40 hooks. However, a couple of tips with them; I nearly always use these hooks for tubes nowadays, but find the smaller sizes too 'springy', which I believe has led to lost fish in the past. If using them for tubes, I would certainly opt for the size 10's and larger. In addition, I tend to find that the points are too widely spread, you can squeeze them together, which gives a much better pattern.

      TT.

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      • #4
        Now that is a cool looking tie. Wonder how something like that would work on Pacific Salmon (Spring Kings are now showing in numbers) or Steelhead?:?

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        • #5
          Aw, TT they're brilliant, can I just order some from you mate, in various colours and sizes???

          :@:@:@

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          • #6
            Originally posted by tone-s View Post
            Aw, TT they're brilliant, can I just order some from you mate, in various colours and sizes???

            I wouldn't have any fingers left if I were to tie these commercially! :> They do tend to encourage finger snagging when tying in-hand!

            From a fishing perspective; if I'm honest, I very rarely fish snake-flies, I prefer tubes, stingers etc. probably because of the time it takes to tie a tube vs. a snake pattern more than anything.

            Fred; yes, I'm sure they could have multiple applications to be honest, especially when different hook gauges and braid strengths are utilised. There are some superbly tied snakes on the internet somewhere by a gent named Andrew Roynon - I will post the link when I find it! They would certainly provide some further inspiration.

            TT.

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            • #7
              Hi TT,

              i tied up a couple of snakes similar to your one but i left a bit of the swivel protruding the thread and i was wandering if it would still work because i have had no offers as yet and was wandering if it was just a waist of time fishing them?

              is this the link you were looking for stefan? http://www.ogmoreriver.com/news/roynon.php
              Last edited by Ugie Fisher; 15-06-2008, 16:11.

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              • #8
                I like the swivel option as I've never been totally happy with a braid eye and my own variation of using a single hook cut off before the bend.

                My solution to the lack of weight is to insert a length or two of lead wire inside the braid which just gives it sufficient weight to sink without losing flexibility or making casting a nightmare.

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                • #9
                  Here's an additional link to Andrew.

                  http://www.ogmoreanglingassociation....%20Roynon.html

                  And thanks for the reminder of his name; had his site 'bookmarked' on my laptop but had forgotten all about same.

                  Fred

                  Edit: if you click the picture of the snake fly you'll get several more. And I remembered the 'why' of how I (past tense anyway) the fellows name. Quite a few folks use his flies for salt water fly fishing (for Salmon) up in Puget Sound (off Seattle, Washington).
                  Last edited by fredaevans; 16-06-2008, 04:04.

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                  • #10
                    Fred; that's the link, thanks. It was 'down' a week ago, but good to see it working now. Those flies are a work of art.

                    UgieFisher; has it stopped the front section of the swivel from twisting? if so, not the end of the World, and should still catch fish. The beauty of them is what Sewinbasher identified, i.e. not having the braid section, that could easily be snipped.

                    TT.

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                    • #11
                      cheers TT,the swivel still moves. i was wonderiong if you know of anyway to interchange hooks on a snake for saltwater fishing, because i tied up some nice ones last year but the hooks are all rusted now?

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                      • #12
                        One of the main problems of the snake flies I'm afraid UgieFisher; not usually the most robust thing you have in your box. When the braid on the body gets frayed, or the hooks get snapped, rusted etc. then the fly is of little use. .:

                        TT.

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                        • #13
                          cheers, just thought that i would ask. I had an idea for it. If you ran a loop of thin wire down the middle of the braid and attached a clip on the end. But i think the hook would keep kicking back or when the fish hits it the treble would go to the side rather than hook in.

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                          • #14
                            Could work UgieFisher, working on a similar principal to waddingtons i.e you could place some silicone tubing on the treble, then push it up over the link to secure it in place. Worth a shot and a play, definitely! Will be interesting to see what you come up with.

                            TT.

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                            • #15
                              UgieFisher; have a look at the super clip on this link:

                              http://www.flybuyer.com/acatalog/Cat...Hooks_345.html

                              I reckon exploring some permutations with them could have some mileage, may even give them a go myself.

                              Further to that, on the same link you can see some fulling mill tube fly doubles. Have been using them this season and have found them to be superb - a good cheap alternative to the Loop versions. Not much cheaper, but you do get a couple of extra hooks in the pack for the price.

                              TT.

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