Tweet
Day 4
I drew back the curtains this morning to see a heavily coloured Gallegos in the distance. Bingo! It is unlikely to fish well today due to the sheer saturation of the colour. However, this really does bode well for the following days as there are a lot of fish stacked up in an Estancia 12km downstream and then further down towards the estuary waiting to enter the system. Excitement is at fever pitch level! Combine this water with the current full moon and we are perfectly poised.
The great thing about the Gallegos is that you have contingencies. If the river is blown out then you can go and fish the Chico for brownies that average around the 3lbs mark, which really floats my boat, especially as they are all on dry fly and all in little breaks between the weedbeds. You really want a windless day for the Chico, but any fishing is better than no fishing, so regardless of wind the Chico may be fished. However, we are in the lap of the guides, who really know their river, so they can dictate accordingly. Perhaps a morning session on the Chico then an evening session on the Gallegos is called for allowing time for the colour to run through.
What has astounded me on the Gallegos is the amount of wildlife. The landscape itself is very barren, devoid of trees and fauna. However, the wildlife thrive. From the Rhea, guanaco, geese, ducks, hares, flamingos, and even the occasional sea-trout! There is far more life here than on Tierra Del Fuego for sure. Pumas are present, as are Armadillos and Coypu. Certainly plenty to marvel at when the fishing is slow.
The river had risen around 4ft overnight and was heavily coloured, too coloured to fish in fact. We needed water, but not this much water!! Now we needed to wait for the water to subside, which would certainly take a day if not longer. As such, a trip to the Chico was called for. To go the Gallegos and not visit the Chico is criminal. The Chico is worth the visit alone, and I know several people that would come for this type of fishing without the attraction of the Gallegos.
The Chico is basically what is termed a ‘Spring Creek’, which is essentially just a low-land river, much like a chalkstream. The water is very fish rich, and they are truly opportunistic feeders. A large Chernobyl ant is called for, with plenty of foam so that you can strip it for maximum effect and commission. The emerge careering out of every little hole and soon devour the offering. Stunning sport on a #4 rod, and sport that I would gladly return to the area for alone.
No matter how hardened a sea-trout angler you may be, I truly implore you to visit the Chico if you are ever in the area, as you are unlikely to be disappointed. Crystal clear water and ravenous trout, always a superb combination.
The end of another fantastic day. Let’s see what tomorrow brings; will it be more of the Chico (no great hardship) or a return to the Gallegos. Either way, there is always a contingency at hand and you will never go without sport of some description, which is a must for me when travelling such a long distance.
Day 5
The Gallegos continued to rage with little or no hope of fishing in the near future, sadly. Clarity was a mere two inches or so and the level was holding. Bella Vista controls some 60km or so of the river, virtually all of which is directly upstream from the lodge. As is the case with all rivers without any significant tributaries, the river will clear from the top down. As such, by the afternoon session there may be hop for the upper beats (beats 3 and 4), which may be showing signs of improvement. Again, time will tell. We are always hopeful and optimistic. It will, however, be with with huge, garish patterns on heavy sinking lines, but needs must.
As was the case yesterday we are never without fishing and world-class fishing at that. The morning session will be spent on the Chico, which is a saviour of many a blank day and an ideal proposition when faced with a windless, sunny day on the main river. Also, nearby the Chico you have some rock paintings, painted some 4000+ years ago! Yet remain intact today, which is more than I can say for paint nowadays! However, I’m not sure if I’d advocate mixing blood into our paints...
When visiting new areas I find it sad when people don’t immerse themselves in the local culture and history, after all there should be more to visiting these fantastic areas than catching fish. Such is the way of these rock paintings, and I would highly recommend visiting them as the tour only takes an hour or so at most.
The morning was spent chasing brown-trout on the Chico as the Gallegos was still out of order. We fished new sections where the overall size seemed larger. We tried a mouse pattern for fun and had great success – the fish really are opportunistic. The ‘fat albert’ spider fly was also a superb pattern, especially when sent skittering out of the deep holes, which the trout found irresistible. As soon as the trout were hooked they dived straight to the weed-beds. Indeed, many a trout were lost in this manner. A lot of pressure was exerted by the little #4 rod to dissuade these lunges, which eventually would prove fruitful.
By the afternoon session on of the guides had been to have a look at the river condition and a decision was made that it was worth a go – who were we to argue. Sure enough the river had dropped by a foot or so, and was now running a ‘tea’ colour, with about 2ft or so clarity. Not perfect, but definitely fishable. The rods were rigged with 12ft of T-14 (a very heavy sinking line made of tungsten. It sinks at 9 inches or so a second) and a 4 inch leach pattern, not something for the faint hearted. They’re a cumbersome duo to cast, but needs must. Soon enough reports were flooding in from down river from another guest at the lodge who was having some sport. He had managed a 9lbs and 18lbs fresh sea-trout.
The first fish threw the hook soon after the take. However, the second fish stayed on for longer and gave a fantastic battle, taking me way into the backing. The fish was soon placed into Gaston’ waiting net, with my first home-tied leech safely buried in the huge mouth. The fish had been in the system for perhaps 2 weeks, probably a fish that entered on the last water. Regardless, it was a great way to end my Gallegos and Bella Vista experience.
I now leave for the Rio Grande on a short flight from Rio Gallegos. My time at Bella Vista has been truly fantastic and has given me a new appreciation and understanding of the river and the fishing to be expected. Would I return? In the blink of an eye! For the Chico alone. Also, with the understanding of quality rather than quantity ringing true for the Gallegos fish I would quite happily return for the challenge of these fish too. Again, not a place for everyone, but I now truly understand why some people choose to return to the Gallegos year after year without compromise. Bella Vista really is a journey that becomes an annual pilgrimage and I hope that I can return in the near future.
My thanks goes out to the team at Bella Vista. The guides; Gaston, Nacho and Corrie who’s confidence and enthusiasm never waver. Through to the house staff of Delfina, Vicky and Sebastian who make it all possible and make sure you return to luxury and comfort each and every day. A superbly run, well oiled programme that cannot be faulted.
I drew back the curtains this morning to see a heavily coloured Gallegos in the distance. Bingo! It is unlikely to fish well today due to the sheer saturation of the colour. However, this really does bode well for the following days as there are a lot of fish stacked up in an Estancia 12km downstream and then further down towards the estuary waiting to enter the system. Excitement is at fever pitch level! Combine this water with the current full moon and we are perfectly poised.
The great thing about the Gallegos is that you have contingencies. If the river is blown out then you can go and fish the Chico for brownies that average around the 3lbs mark, which really floats my boat, especially as they are all on dry fly and all in little breaks between the weedbeds. You really want a windless day for the Chico, but any fishing is better than no fishing, so regardless of wind the Chico may be fished. However, we are in the lap of the guides, who really know their river, so they can dictate accordingly. Perhaps a morning session on the Chico then an evening session on the Gallegos is called for allowing time for the colour to run through.
What has astounded me on the Gallegos is the amount of wildlife. The landscape itself is very barren, devoid of trees and fauna. However, the wildlife thrive. From the Rhea, guanaco, geese, ducks, hares, flamingos, and even the occasional sea-trout! There is far more life here than on Tierra Del Fuego for sure. Pumas are present, as are Armadillos and Coypu. Certainly plenty to marvel at when the fishing is slow.
The river had risen around 4ft overnight and was heavily coloured, too coloured to fish in fact. We needed water, but not this much water!! Now we needed to wait for the water to subside, which would certainly take a day if not longer. As such, a trip to the Chico was called for. To go the Gallegos and not visit the Chico is criminal. The Chico is worth the visit alone, and I know several people that would come for this type of fishing without the attraction of the Gallegos.
The Chico is basically what is termed a ‘Spring Creek’, which is essentially just a low-land river, much like a chalkstream. The water is very fish rich, and they are truly opportunistic feeders. A large Chernobyl ant is called for, with plenty of foam so that you can strip it for maximum effect and commission. The emerge careering out of every little hole and soon devour the offering. Stunning sport on a #4 rod, and sport that I would gladly return to the area for alone.
No matter how hardened a sea-trout angler you may be, I truly implore you to visit the Chico if you are ever in the area, as you are unlikely to be disappointed. Crystal clear water and ravenous trout, always a superb combination.
The end of another fantastic day. Let’s see what tomorrow brings; will it be more of the Chico (no great hardship) or a return to the Gallegos. Either way, there is always a contingency at hand and you will never go without sport of some description, which is a must for me when travelling such a long distance.
Day 5
The Gallegos continued to rage with little or no hope of fishing in the near future, sadly. Clarity was a mere two inches or so and the level was holding. Bella Vista controls some 60km or so of the river, virtually all of which is directly upstream from the lodge. As is the case with all rivers without any significant tributaries, the river will clear from the top down. As such, by the afternoon session there may be hop for the upper beats (beats 3 and 4), which may be showing signs of improvement. Again, time will tell. We are always hopeful and optimistic. It will, however, be with with huge, garish patterns on heavy sinking lines, but needs must.
As was the case yesterday we are never without fishing and world-class fishing at that. The morning session will be spent on the Chico, which is a saviour of many a blank day and an ideal proposition when faced with a windless, sunny day on the main river. Also, nearby the Chico you have some rock paintings, painted some 4000+ years ago! Yet remain intact today, which is more than I can say for paint nowadays! However, I’m not sure if I’d advocate mixing blood into our paints...
When visiting new areas I find it sad when people don’t immerse themselves in the local culture and history, after all there should be more to visiting these fantastic areas than catching fish. Such is the way of these rock paintings, and I would highly recommend visiting them as the tour only takes an hour or so at most.
The morning was spent chasing brown-trout on the Chico as the Gallegos was still out of order. We fished new sections where the overall size seemed larger. We tried a mouse pattern for fun and had great success – the fish really are opportunistic. The ‘fat albert’ spider fly was also a superb pattern, especially when sent skittering out of the deep holes, which the trout found irresistible. As soon as the trout were hooked they dived straight to the weed-beds. Indeed, many a trout were lost in this manner. A lot of pressure was exerted by the little #4 rod to dissuade these lunges, which eventually would prove fruitful.
By the afternoon session on of the guides had been to have a look at the river condition and a decision was made that it was worth a go – who were we to argue. Sure enough the river had dropped by a foot or so, and was now running a ‘tea’ colour, with about 2ft or so clarity. Not perfect, but definitely fishable. The rods were rigged with 12ft of T-14 (a very heavy sinking line made of tungsten. It sinks at 9 inches or so a second) and a 4 inch leach pattern, not something for the faint hearted. They’re a cumbersome duo to cast, but needs must. Soon enough reports were flooding in from down river from another guest at the lodge who was having some sport. He had managed a 9lbs and 18lbs fresh sea-trout.
The first fish threw the hook soon after the take. However, the second fish stayed on for longer and gave a fantastic battle, taking me way into the backing. The fish was soon placed into Gaston’ waiting net, with my first home-tied leech safely buried in the huge mouth. The fish had been in the system for perhaps 2 weeks, probably a fish that entered on the last water. Regardless, it was a great way to end my Gallegos and Bella Vista experience.
I now leave for the Rio Grande on a short flight from Rio Gallegos. My time at Bella Vista has been truly fantastic and has given me a new appreciation and understanding of the river and the fishing to be expected. Would I return? In the blink of an eye! For the Chico alone. Also, with the understanding of quality rather than quantity ringing true for the Gallegos fish I would quite happily return for the challenge of these fish too. Again, not a place for everyone, but I now truly understand why some people choose to return to the Gallegos year after year without compromise. Bella Vista really is a journey that becomes an annual pilgrimage and I hope that I can return in the near future.
My thanks goes out to the team at Bella Vista. The guides; Gaston, Nacho and Corrie who’s confidence and enthusiasm never waver. Through to the house staff of Delfina, Vicky and Sebastian who make it all possible and make sure you return to luxury and comfort each and every day. A superbly run, well oiled programme that cannot be faulted.
Comment