Tweet
Much the same as the Jambo step-by-step I've posted with it being a generic mount for numerous patterns. Hopefully the sequence is easy to follow, and some of you make good use of it.
Step 1:
Attach the treble hook to the vice. Take a length of nylon, 20cm of so will suffice – hard nylon/fluoro is best, here I have used Seaguar. Pass one end of the nylon through the eye of the treble, then pass the other end through from the other direction.
Step 2:
Draw both ends tight and make sure the loop being formed gets trapped between the bend of the treble hooks. Trap the loop on the treble and secure with the thread. Once a few wraps have been formed you can draw the loop in tightly.
Step 3:
After a base of tying thread has been formed attach some silver tinsel. Further to this, apply a coat of superb glue, which will help secure the nylon, but also secure the silver tinsel without the need of a wire rib.
Step 4:
Run the tinsel down the length of the treble, then secure at the head. Build up a ‘strike point’ of fire-orange thread and super-glue or varnish to finish off – it is important to varnish at this stage, doing so later could equate to wing material etc. getting trapped in the varnish.
Step 5:
Point the eye of the treble towards you, with the two ends of the nylon hanging loosely. Pass one length of nylon over the other and continue to do so until a good length of twists have been constructed - drawing the two lengths away from each other will help in getting tighter twists, which, in turn, slightly stiffens the connection. Don’t be tempted to hold the nylon and twist the treble, the twists won’t form the same and will not hold the same. Once enough twists have been formed throw a half hitch to hold them in place until ready for use.
Step 6:
Attach the Aberdeen hook to the vice, and bring the nylon and treble up to be secured. Measure the length to protrude before securing, pinch and loop, then secure along the rest of the shank. Once the initial section has been secured the rest of the twists can be worked out, in order to give you a level tying bed on which to construct the body.
Step 7:
When working the two lengths of nylon down the shank pass one end through the eye of the hook and loop it back under the shank. Secure with thread, snip the one length near the eye of the hook, and the other length, which has been doubled back, by the bend. Fully secure the whole body with thread and apply a coat of superglue to secure and bind.
For inspiration; here are some examples of stinger patterns that have produced doubles for me over the last two seasons:
TT.
Step 1:
Attach the treble hook to the vice. Take a length of nylon, 20cm of so will suffice – hard nylon/fluoro is best, here I have used Seaguar. Pass one end of the nylon through the eye of the treble, then pass the other end through from the other direction.
Step 2:
Draw both ends tight and make sure the loop being formed gets trapped between the bend of the treble hooks. Trap the loop on the treble and secure with the thread. Once a few wraps have been formed you can draw the loop in tightly.
Step 3:
After a base of tying thread has been formed attach some silver tinsel. Further to this, apply a coat of superb glue, which will help secure the nylon, but also secure the silver tinsel without the need of a wire rib.
Step 4:
Run the tinsel down the length of the treble, then secure at the head. Build up a ‘strike point’ of fire-orange thread and super-glue or varnish to finish off – it is important to varnish at this stage, doing so later could equate to wing material etc. getting trapped in the varnish.
Step 5:
Point the eye of the treble towards you, with the two ends of the nylon hanging loosely. Pass one length of nylon over the other and continue to do so until a good length of twists have been constructed - drawing the two lengths away from each other will help in getting tighter twists, which, in turn, slightly stiffens the connection. Don’t be tempted to hold the nylon and twist the treble, the twists won’t form the same and will not hold the same. Once enough twists have been formed throw a half hitch to hold them in place until ready for use.
Step 6:
Attach the Aberdeen hook to the vice, and bring the nylon and treble up to be secured. Measure the length to protrude before securing, pinch and loop, then secure along the rest of the shank. Once the initial section has been secured the rest of the twists can be worked out, in order to give you a level tying bed on which to construct the body.
Step 7:
When working the two lengths of nylon down the shank pass one end through the eye of the hook and loop it back under the shank. Secure with thread, snip the one length near the eye of the hook, and the other length, which has been doubled back, by the bend. Fully secure the whole body with thread and apply a coat of superglue to secure and bind.
For inspiration; here are some examples of stinger patterns that have produced doubles for me over the last two seasons:
TT.
Comment