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Had this step-by-step lying around, so thought I'd share it with those that may find it of interest - even though it has done the rounds a few times....
The essentials; darning needle, 2x1cm shrink tubes (3mm internal bore), 25cm section of braided mono, size 10 Partridge BMD double hook, size 10 swivel, lighter, super-glue (doesn’t have to be waterproof as it will be covered by the shrink-tubing).
Start by threading the hook onto the braid, followed by the needle.
Looping back, puncture the braid with the needle, passing it up the braid for about 3-4cm (depending on what length you want the fly to be) before passing the needle to the outside of the core.
Pull the needle through, then take the needle off the braid. You can then pull the loose end until it sits snugly onto the hook.
Repeat the process with the swivel.
Pulling both loose ends tight to the hook and swivel, the loose ends can then be cut snugly to the body, taking care not to cut the body braid.
The next step is to put on the 2 pieces of shrink-tubing. If the tubes pass over the swivel easily, all the better. However, if they don’t then it is easier to loop some nylon through the eye of the swivel and pass the two tubes over the nylon. You can then exert some force onto the tubes, which will help them pass over the swivel.
With the two tubes on the mount, the next step is to drop a small amount of super-glue onto the mount. One small drop by the hook, and one small drop by the swivel.
The tubes are then passed over the glue and positioned. When in position, pass the lighter over the tubes, quickly! – If not, you will burn the mount.
After shrinking both tubes, pull the mount straight and hold. Upon cooling, which takes just a few second, you will be left with a nice, straight mount. At times, especially with the longer mounts, you will find that the snakes hinge too much. To cure this put a third piece of shrink tubing around the middle of the amount, again with a drop of glue. That’s the mount finished! I find it easier to make a few at the same time, before continuing to the tying stage.
These flies can be slightly fiddly, as they are predominantly tied in hand (literally). As such, the next step is to set out all the materials you are going to need for the fly. Here I have used black arctic fox belly fur for the wing, red arctic fox plate fur false hackle, lazer mylar tubing body, jungle cock cheeks, peacock mirage overwing, 6/0 fire orange thread.
Firstly, measure and cut a sufficient amount of mylar tubing for the body. Cut slightly more than necessary, as it does tend to fray.
Upon passing it over the mount, secure it near the hook. This stage can be done in the vice, if necessary. Tie off the thread and varnish. Always varnish before doing the next step! If not, you will end up with the materials getting in the way, and getting stuck to the varnish. Quite often I would do up to this point in batches, ready for tying on the final ingredients.
With the hook end sorted, we can now progress to the swivel. Clamp the swivel in one hand and tie with the other. Two critical tying techniques will help you with this fly; pinch-and-loop, and the half-hitch – superb glue can come in handy too. The second stage is to secure the mylar tubing at the swivel end. Before securing the mylar, pull it taught. This will give you a nice, slim body. After securing and trimming the excess put a couple of half hitches onto the head and a dab of super glue – this will stop the thread bouncing off the swivel, and will enable you to put the fly down whilst you sort out the next material.
Measure the wing to the appropriate length – just past the hook-bend. Then pinch and loop before tightening the thread onto the swivel and putting a few tight turns to secure the wing. Repeat this for the mirage tinsel overwing, leaving the fibres longer than necessary and trimming after completing the entire fly. Put on another couple of half-hitches to secure.
Turn the fly over, and repeat the above procedure with the red arctic fox fur as a false hackle. I tend to tie this to half the length of the body, or shorter.
After that, get the jungle cock eyes which are ready prepared. Position them with a couple of loose turns of thread before tying them in firmly.
Take the thread over the head, tidying up any gaps or colours showing through – or you can cheat by using coloured varnish at a later date. Then whip-finish, and varnish. Job done!
The final article, side view.
The wet-look! As you can see, the fibres are very fine and form quite a streamline wing and false hackle when wet.
Due to their braided core, snake-flies carry little weight. This is both a hindrance and a help. The lightweight construction equates to long lengths being fishable without casting becoming too much of a chore, or a ‘chuck-and-duck’ affair. However, this lightweight construction does also render a shallow fishing depth, dependant on line choice, of course. Lead strips can be passed through the core of the braid before attaching the mylar tubing, this would add weight to the body without losing the flexibility of the fly. However, a better solution would be to fish the flies on a short leader with sinking or sink-tips lines. This way you will keep the light, easy to cast fly, whilst getting down to the required depth.
Hope this was of interest.
Tight-lines.
TT.
The essentials; darning needle, 2x1cm shrink tubes (3mm internal bore), 25cm section of braided mono, size 10 Partridge BMD double hook, size 10 swivel, lighter, super-glue (doesn’t have to be waterproof as it will be covered by the shrink-tubing).
Start by threading the hook onto the braid, followed by the needle.
Looping back, puncture the braid with the needle, passing it up the braid for about 3-4cm (depending on what length you want the fly to be) before passing the needle to the outside of the core.
Pull the needle through, then take the needle off the braid. You can then pull the loose end until it sits snugly onto the hook.
Repeat the process with the swivel.
Pulling both loose ends tight to the hook and swivel, the loose ends can then be cut snugly to the body, taking care not to cut the body braid.
The next step is to put on the 2 pieces of shrink-tubing. If the tubes pass over the swivel easily, all the better. However, if they don’t then it is easier to loop some nylon through the eye of the swivel and pass the two tubes over the nylon. You can then exert some force onto the tubes, which will help them pass over the swivel.
With the two tubes on the mount, the next step is to drop a small amount of super-glue onto the mount. One small drop by the hook, and one small drop by the swivel.
The tubes are then passed over the glue and positioned. When in position, pass the lighter over the tubes, quickly! – If not, you will burn the mount.
After shrinking both tubes, pull the mount straight and hold. Upon cooling, which takes just a few second, you will be left with a nice, straight mount. At times, especially with the longer mounts, you will find that the snakes hinge too much. To cure this put a third piece of shrink tubing around the middle of the amount, again with a drop of glue. That’s the mount finished! I find it easier to make a few at the same time, before continuing to the tying stage.
These flies can be slightly fiddly, as they are predominantly tied in hand (literally). As such, the next step is to set out all the materials you are going to need for the fly. Here I have used black arctic fox belly fur for the wing, red arctic fox plate fur false hackle, lazer mylar tubing body, jungle cock cheeks, peacock mirage overwing, 6/0 fire orange thread.
Firstly, measure and cut a sufficient amount of mylar tubing for the body. Cut slightly more than necessary, as it does tend to fray.
Upon passing it over the mount, secure it near the hook. This stage can be done in the vice, if necessary. Tie off the thread and varnish. Always varnish before doing the next step! If not, you will end up with the materials getting in the way, and getting stuck to the varnish. Quite often I would do up to this point in batches, ready for tying on the final ingredients.
With the hook end sorted, we can now progress to the swivel. Clamp the swivel in one hand and tie with the other. Two critical tying techniques will help you with this fly; pinch-and-loop, and the half-hitch – superb glue can come in handy too. The second stage is to secure the mylar tubing at the swivel end. Before securing the mylar, pull it taught. This will give you a nice, slim body. After securing and trimming the excess put a couple of half hitches onto the head and a dab of super glue – this will stop the thread bouncing off the swivel, and will enable you to put the fly down whilst you sort out the next material.
Measure the wing to the appropriate length – just past the hook-bend. Then pinch and loop before tightening the thread onto the swivel and putting a few tight turns to secure the wing. Repeat this for the mirage tinsel overwing, leaving the fibres longer than necessary and trimming after completing the entire fly. Put on another couple of half-hitches to secure.
Turn the fly over, and repeat the above procedure with the red arctic fox fur as a false hackle. I tend to tie this to half the length of the body, or shorter.
After that, get the jungle cock eyes which are ready prepared. Position them with a couple of loose turns of thread before tying them in firmly.
Take the thread over the head, tidying up any gaps or colours showing through – or you can cheat by using coloured varnish at a later date. Then whip-finish, and varnish. Job done!
The final article, side view.
The wet-look! As you can see, the fibres are very fine and form quite a streamline wing and false hackle when wet.
Due to their braided core, snake-flies carry little weight. This is both a hindrance and a help. The lightweight construction equates to long lengths being fishable without casting becoming too much of a chore, or a ‘chuck-and-duck’ affair. However, this lightweight construction does also render a shallow fishing depth, dependant on line choice, of course. Lead strips can be passed through the core of the braid before attaching the mylar tubing, this would add weight to the body without losing the flexibility of the fly. However, a better solution would be to fish the flies on a short leader with sinking or sink-tips lines. This way you will keep the light, easy to cast fly, whilst getting down to the required depth.
Hope this was of interest.
Tight-lines.
TT.
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