Here’s a new one for you guys, which I hope you will find of interest and of use. It’s an interesting little concept that adds versatility to your set-up and to a standard fly. Basically, from a standard pattern you have 3 options; fish it as is, fish it as a surface lure, or fish it as a booby pattern.
Step 1.
Cut a square section out of a plastazote block. I have used black, but you can use any colour, of course. Then cut the square section in half, length ways, leaving you with 2 square blocks. These will vary in size according to the size you’d like the finished item to be; larger for larger flies and more buoyancy etc.
Step 2.
Start cutting the corners off the square block, working around the block. This will leave you with 2 flat surfaces, and then a rounded block around the outside.
Step 3.
Next chop into the block at an angle, to create a graduated rounded effect, like that found on the top of a ear plug. You should taper it whilst still leaving a small flat section at one end, tapering off to a much larger flat section at the other. Following this process, and when you think you have an even shape, rub the finished shape between the palm of your hands quickly. This will slightly heat the foam and give it a smoother looking finish – this is purely aesthetical, of course.
Step 4.
Pierce the block straight through the middle with a large eyed needle. Slowly insert from the narrow end of the block, pushing through slowly and watching the back-end of the block to make sure that it emerges right in the middle, thus ensuring an even shape and fishing action.
Step 5.
Next take some heavy nylon (20lbs+) through the eye of the needle, then draw the needle through the block, creating a loop on one side.
Step 6.
Re-insert the needle through the whole through which it came, sliding it off the other side. You are then left with a loop of nylon at one side of the block, with two tag ends at the other.
Step 7.
Place some silicone tubing into the loop and draw it up tight to the end of the block by pulling on the tag ends. Silicone tubing is best, as neoprene is much stiffer and will not pass through as easily, which may result in a split block.
Step 8.
Draw the silicone tubing right through the core of the block until freed. You will then have the block resting on the tubing.
Step 9.
Keep drawing the tubing through the block until some 1cm is left protruding at the back-end (thickest end) of the block. When this is achieved place some superglue all over the small section of tubing before slowly drawing the tubing through the block, stopping when the tubing rests flush with the thickest end of the block. It is crucial that you superglue the back end of the tube (the thickest section) as this is the section that will take the most abuse. Also, by drawing through you will have a coating of superglue supporting inside the block too.
Step 10.
Take a pair of scissors and snip the tubing protruding on the thin end of the block. Gently squeeze down on the block when doing so, as this will give you a nice, flush finish.
Step 11.
Pass your fishing line through the centre of the block (when out fishing) then tie on your chosen fly - making sure that the thickest end of the block is the side that hits the fly first. Then simply pull the block up on to the head of the fly, covering the eye and head of the fly. Job done. Cuck it out and give it a swim. If it’s not buoyant enough for the fly chosen then simply change it for a larger block. You will find that the silicone tubing grips the head and eye of the fly snugly and securely.
Further to that, you can also alter the shape of the foam to create e.g. jambo type heads, where you would have 3 flat surfaces and one concaved.
Hope you find this little tip of use. It has served me well, so hopefully it will you too.
TT.
Step 1.
Cut a square section out of a plastazote block. I have used black, but you can use any colour, of course. Then cut the square section in half, length ways, leaving you with 2 square blocks. These will vary in size according to the size you’d like the finished item to be; larger for larger flies and more buoyancy etc.
Step 2.
Start cutting the corners off the square block, working around the block. This will leave you with 2 flat surfaces, and then a rounded block around the outside.
Step 3.
Next chop into the block at an angle, to create a graduated rounded effect, like that found on the top of a ear plug. You should taper it whilst still leaving a small flat section at one end, tapering off to a much larger flat section at the other. Following this process, and when you think you have an even shape, rub the finished shape between the palm of your hands quickly. This will slightly heat the foam and give it a smoother looking finish – this is purely aesthetical, of course.
Step 4.
Pierce the block straight through the middle with a large eyed needle. Slowly insert from the narrow end of the block, pushing through slowly and watching the back-end of the block to make sure that it emerges right in the middle, thus ensuring an even shape and fishing action.
Step 5.
Next take some heavy nylon (20lbs+) through the eye of the needle, then draw the needle through the block, creating a loop on one side.
Step 6.
Re-insert the needle through the whole through which it came, sliding it off the other side. You are then left with a loop of nylon at one side of the block, with two tag ends at the other.
Step 7.
Place some silicone tubing into the loop and draw it up tight to the end of the block by pulling on the tag ends. Silicone tubing is best, as neoprene is much stiffer and will not pass through as easily, which may result in a split block.
Step 8.
Draw the silicone tubing right through the core of the block until freed. You will then have the block resting on the tubing.
Step 9.
Keep drawing the tubing through the block until some 1cm is left protruding at the back-end (thickest end) of the block. When this is achieved place some superglue all over the small section of tubing before slowly drawing the tubing through the block, stopping when the tubing rests flush with the thickest end of the block. It is crucial that you superglue the back end of the tube (the thickest section) as this is the section that will take the most abuse. Also, by drawing through you will have a coating of superglue supporting inside the block too.
Step 10.
Take a pair of scissors and snip the tubing protruding on the thin end of the block. Gently squeeze down on the block when doing so, as this will give you a nice, flush finish.
Step 11.
Pass your fishing line through the centre of the block (when out fishing) then tie on your chosen fly - making sure that the thickest end of the block is the side that hits the fly first. Then simply pull the block up on to the head of the fly, covering the eye and head of the fly. Job done. Cuck it out and give it a swim. If it’s not buoyant enough for the fly chosen then simply change it for a larger block. You will find that the silicone tubing grips the head and eye of the fly snugly and securely.
Further to that, you can also alter the shape of the foam to create e.g. jambo type heads, where you would have 3 flat surfaces and one concaved.
Hope you find this little tip of use. It has served me well, so hopefully it will you too.
TT.
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