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As promised, here's a step-by-step lesson on how to create a jambo, or surface lure.
Step 1:
Attach the treble hook to the vice. Take a length of nylon, 20cm of so will suffice – hard nylon/fluoro is best, here I have used Seaguar. Pass one end of the nylon through the eye of the treble, then pass the other end through from the other direction.
Step 2:
Draw both ends tight and make sure the loop being formed gets trapped between the bend of the treble hooks. Trap the loop on the treble and secure with the thread. Once a few wraps have been formed you can draw the loop in tightly.
Step 3:
After a base of tying thread has been formed attach some silver tinsel. Further to this, apply a coat of superb glue, which will help secure the nylon, but also secure the silver tinsel without the need of a wire rib.
Step 4:
Run the tinsel down the length of the treble, then secure at the head. Build up a ‘strike point’ of fire-orange thread and super-glue or varnish to finish off – it is important to varnish at this stage, doing so later could equate to wing material etc. getting trapped in the varnish.
Step 5:
Point the eye of the treble towards you, with the two ends of the nylon hanging loosely. Pass one length of nylon over the other and continue to do so until a good length of twists have been constructed - drawing the two lengths away from each other will help in getting tighter twists, which, in turn, slightly stiffens the connection. Don’t be tempted to hold the nylon and twist the treble, the twists won’t form the same and will not hold the same. Once enough twists have been formed throw a half hitch to hold them in place until ready for use.
Step 6:
Attach the Aberdeen hook to the vice, and bring the nylon and treble up to be secured. Measure the length to protrude before securing, pinch and loop, then secure along the rest of the shank. Once the initial section has been secured the rest of the twists can be worked out, in order to give you a level tying bed on which to construct the body.
Step 7:
When working the two lengths of nylon down the shank pass one end through the eye of the hook and loop it back under the shank. Secure with thread, snip the one length near the eye of the hook, and the other length, which has been doubled back, by the bend. Fully secure the whole body with thread and apply a coat of superglue to secure and bind.
Step 8:
Trap in some silver tinsel followed by some black floss towards the bend of the hook.
Step 9:
First take the black floss in touching turns two thirds of the way up the shank, followed by the silver tinsel in open turns. There’s no need to go right up to the eye of the hook, as the front third will be covered with the spun deer hair.
Step 10:
Feel free to explore your own tangents with the wing colours and combinations, with the same being said for the deer hair for the head section. Here I have firstly used some electric blue bucktail, followed by some mirage tinsel, topped with some peacock eye fibres – I prefer the materials to protrude beyond the treble.
Step 11:
The next stage is to tightly clump and secure several portions of dyed black deer hair. Stack the portions tightly, pulling the last lot back before securing the next, to enable as much to be incorporated as possible. You should be left with a healthy afro.
Step 12:
With the hard work now complete it’s time to get working with the scissors and pliers. Snip the bend of the Aberdeen hook as close as you can to the dressed body – taking care not to damage the nylon in the process. Take care where the bend springs off to when cut, as they can fire off at speed – try holding the fly in a cloth when cutting, which traps the cut end. Further to this, you can start working on the spun head. Clip the under section quite tightly, and fully expose the dressed body. The topside can be tapered slightly towards the tail end, as can the sides. Leave the head bulbous and scruffy, with the greatest buoyancy towards the top of the fly.
Step 13:
The finished article, note the clipped under section, which allows the mid-section to ride in the surface.
Hope that helps.
TT.
Step 1:
Attach the treble hook to the vice. Take a length of nylon, 20cm of so will suffice – hard nylon/fluoro is best, here I have used Seaguar. Pass one end of the nylon through the eye of the treble, then pass the other end through from the other direction.
Step 2:
Draw both ends tight and make sure the loop being formed gets trapped between the bend of the treble hooks. Trap the loop on the treble and secure with the thread. Once a few wraps have been formed you can draw the loop in tightly.
Step 3:
After a base of tying thread has been formed attach some silver tinsel. Further to this, apply a coat of superb glue, which will help secure the nylon, but also secure the silver tinsel without the need of a wire rib.
Step 4:
Run the tinsel down the length of the treble, then secure at the head. Build up a ‘strike point’ of fire-orange thread and super-glue or varnish to finish off – it is important to varnish at this stage, doing so later could equate to wing material etc. getting trapped in the varnish.
Step 5:
Point the eye of the treble towards you, with the two ends of the nylon hanging loosely. Pass one length of nylon over the other and continue to do so until a good length of twists have been constructed - drawing the two lengths away from each other will help in getting tighter twists, which, in turn, slightly stiffens the connection. Don’t be tempted to hold the nylon and twist the treble, the twists won’t form the same and will not hold the same. Once enough twists have been formed throw a half hitch to hold them in place until ready for use.
Step 6:
Attach the Aberdeen hook to the vice, and bring the nylon and treble up to be secured. Measure the length to protrude before securing, pinch and loop, then secure along the rest of the shank. Once the initial section has been secured the rest of the twists can be worked out, in order to give you a level tying bed on which to construct the body.
Step 7:
When working the two lengths of nylon down the shank pass one end through the eye of the hook and loop it back under the shank. Secure with thread, snip the one length near the eye of the hook, and the other length, which has been doubled back, by the bend. Fully secure the whole body with thread and apply a coat of superglue to secure and bind.
Step 8:
Trap in some silver tinsel followed by some black floss towards the bend of the hook.
Step 9:
First take the black floss in touching turns two thirds of the way up the shank, followed by the silver tinsel in open turns. There’s no need to go right up to the eye of the hook, as the front third will be covered with the spun deer hair.
Step 10:
Feel free to explore your own tangents with the wing colours and combinations, with the same being said for the deer hair for the head section. Here I have firstly used some electric blue bucktail, followed by some mirage tinsel, topped with some peacock eye fibres – I prefer the materials to protrude beyond the treble.
Step 11:
The next stage is to tightly clump and secure several portions of dyed black deer hair. Stack the portions tightly, pulling the last lot back before securing the next, to enable as much to be incorporated as possible. You should be left with a healthy afro.
Step 12:
With the hard work now complete it’s time to get working with the scissors and pliers. Snip the bend of the Aberdeen hook as close as you can to the dressed body – taking care not to damage the nylon in the process. Take care where the bend springs off to when cut, as they can fire off at speed – try holding the fly in a cloth when cutting, which traps the cut end. Further to this, you can start working on the spun head. Clip the under section quite tightly, and fully expose the dressed body. The topside can be tapered slightly towards the tail end, as can the sides. Leave the head bulbous and scruffy, with the greatest buoyancy towards the top of the fly.
Step 13:
The finished article, note the clipped under section, which allows the mid-section to ride in the surface.
Hope that helps.
TT.
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